Have you ever wondered why lobsters are commonly associated with wealth? We certainly have.
Why is it that in Hemingway's A Moveable Feast, the narrator enjoys a meal of lobster with mayonnaise rather than tinned sardines with his cold glass of white wine? Presumably, the abundance of lobsters in The Great Gatsby adds to the opulence and excess of the Jazz Age elite and the parties may have seemed less alluring to readers had the culinary scene been populated by leek and potato stews (that said, a hearty stew does have its charm, too).
Few delicacies evoke images of lavishness and extravagance quite like lobsters. These crustaceans, once considered food fit only for the impoverished and prisoners, have undergone quite a transformation through history.
The story of lobsters begins centuries ago along the eastern coast of North America, where Indigenous peoples first harvested them as a readily available food source. Native Americans employed various techniques to capture these bountiful ten-legged creatures, recognising their profusion and nutritional value. Early European settlers arriving on the shores of the New World encountered lobsters in abundance, subsequently incorporating them into their diets and acknowledging their utility. Lobsters were so ample that there were reports of them being washed ashore in stacks reaching heights of up to 2 feet.
As colonial America flourished, lobsters remained plentiful and were commonly consumed by both the wealthy and the working class. However, their widespread availability and humble origins gradually led to their association with poverty and lower-class fare. By the 19th century, lobsters had become so abundant that they were often used as fertiliser, bait, and even fed to prisoners, earning them the moniker “poor man's protein”. In Massachusetts, historical accounts suggest that certain servants strategically negotiated their contracts to limit their lobster intake, stipulating that they would only be served the prized shellfish twice a week. Fast forward to today, and the global lobster market was valued at US $ 7.6 Billion in 2023.
The tide began to turn for lobsters (unintended pun) in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, spurred by advancements in transportation and preservation techniques. Improved methods allowed for the shipping of live lobsters to urban centres and inland cities, where they began to find favour among affluent diners. One crucial development was the widespread adoption of refrigerated railcars and steamships, which enabled the efficient transportation of live lobsters. With the introduction of refrigerated transportation, these could be shipped to markets hundreds or even thousands of miles away without significant deterioration in quality. This opened up new markets for lobsters beyond coastal communities, allowing them to reach affluent consumers willing to pay a premium price for fresh seafood.
By the mid-20th century, lobsters had firmly cemented their status as symbols of wealth and indulgence. The post-World War II era saw a period of economic prosperity in many Western countries, leading to an increase in disposable income among the middle and upper classes. As people became wealthier, they sought out luxury goods and experiences, including fine dining and gourmet cuisine. Lobsters were consumed at an unprecedented rate.
They gained further cachet through their association with celebrity culture and popular media. High-profile figures often indulged in lobster dinners, reinforcing the perception of lobsters as a symbol of wealth and privilege. Additionally, lobsters became featured in film, television shows, and literature as markers of these. On the set of River of No Return in Canada, Marilyn Monroe exclusively ate lobster, while George W. Bush likes his lobster rolls with both mayonnaise and butter.
This fondness for lobster extended beyond personal taste and into geopolitical territory, as evidenced by the “Lobster War” between France and Brazil. Also known as the Lobster Operation, this quarrel arose when the Brazilian government refused to grant permission for French fishing vessels to harvest spiny lobsters within a 100-mile zone off the Brazilian coast. Brazil's stance was based on the assertion that lobsters “crawl along the continental shelf,” implying that they were subject to coastal jurisdiction. In contrast, the French argued that “lobsters swim,” contending that they could be caught by any fishing vessel from any country, regardless of territorial boundaries. Who could have known the age-old question of whether lobsters swim or crawl could have ignited a diplomatic dispute?
In 2019, tensions flared over Canada's decision to restrict the export of live lobsters, citing concerns about the conservation of the species. This move sparked retaliatory measures from the U.S., leading to a trade dispute dubbed the “Lobster War”.
Today, lobsters have transcended their humble origins and firmly established themselves as a luxury item in culinary circles worldwide. The evolution of lobsters from a food of necessity to one of indulgence is a testament to human ingenuity, economic shifts, and changing cultural perceptions. No longer relegated to the menus of coastal towns or the diets of the impoverished, lobsters now grace the tables of Michelin-starred restaurants and high-end seafood markets, commanding premium prices and epitomising extravagance. A lobster dinner at a mid-range restaurant might start at $30 to $50 per plate, while upscale establishments may charge upwards of $100 or more for a lobster entree. Lobster rolls, a popular menu item in coastal regions, can range from $15 to $30 depending on the venue and ingredients used.
From Salvador Dalí’s painting “Lobster Telephone” (1936), to Warhol’s series of screen prints titled “Lobster” (1982), these shell-bound creatures have clawed their way into our plates (for those who can afford it) and onto our canvases. Marcel Proust and Lewis Carroll also seem to have a penchant for lobsters, though the latter is sung while the former is eaten.
In short, when life gives you lobsters, make food, fertiliser, throw a party or an international dispute, or, perhaps best of all, make art. You could alternatively consider establishing a periodical publication entitled “The Lobster,” although our initiative may have preceded yours in this regard.